Pura Taman Saraswati sits in the middle of Ubud, set back from Jalan Raya behind a rectangular pond thick with lotus. The temple is dedicated to Saraswati, the goddess of learning, music and the arts, which places it exactly where it should be in a town that has built its name on painting, carving and dance. The approach along the pond is the point: a paved walkway runs between the water and ends at a carved gate, and the whole composition is designed to slow you down.
The pond and the gate
Lotus fills the water on both sides of the walkway, flowering in the morning and closing again in the afternoon heat. At the end, a split gate and then a towering carved doorway lead into the temple courtyard, worked in soft sandstone that weathers to grey and green. The carving came out of the circle around I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, the Ubud artist and architect whose hand shaped much of the town’s built work in the twentieth century.
Inside the courtyard
Beyond the gate the courtyard holds shrines, a pavilion and further carved panels, quieter than the pond and rarely crowded. This is a working temple, so parts of it are for worship rather than sightseeing, and offerings sit on the shrine steps through the day. Dress modestly, keep to the open areas, and step back when a ceremony is under way.
Dance in the evening
Most evenings a stage in front of the temple hosts Balinese dance, usually Legong or Barong, with the lit gate as a backdrop. Tickets are around Rp 100,000 and are sold at the gate and by sellers around town during the day. The performances start at about 7.30pm and run for an hour or so. It is one of the easier ways to see live gamelan and dance in Ubud without booking ahead.
Getting there
The temple stands on Jalan Kajeng, a few minutes on foot from Ubud market and from Ubud Palace, and a cafe on the pond gives a second view of the same scene. There is no car park of its own, so walking in from the centre is easier than riding. It pairs naturally with the market, the palace and an afternoon on the Campuhan Ridge Walk. For the wider picture, see our guide to Ubud and the list of things to do in Ubud.