Alas Harum sits on the Tegallalang road north of Ubud, where the valley falls away in the stepped paddies that have made this stretch famous. It is an agrotourism park rather than a viewpoint: a private site built into the terraces, with swings, platforms, a pool and a coffee plantation gathered behind one gate. The letters of its name stand on the hillside opposite, which tells you something about how the place sees itself.
The terraces
The paddies here are worked and watered the same way as the rest of the valley, cut into the slope in narrow steps with a stream running at the bottom. Paths and staircases lead down through them, and gilded statues of dancers stand at the turns as photo stops. Walking down and back is a proper climb in the heat, so the shaded platforms partway along earn their keep. The terraces stay green through the year, with the strongest colour in the weeks after planting.
Swings, platforms and the pool
The swings are the reason most people come, hung from steel frames on the lip of the slope so that the arc carries you out over the valley. They run in a range of sizes, from single seats to frames that take a family, and each is priced separately from the entrance fee. Alongside them are glass-floored platforms, nests and bike frames strung on a cable, and an infinity pool cut into the hillside with a bar and daybeds facing the terraces. Floating breakfast trays in the pool can be booked as an extra.
Coffee and tea tasting
The plantation part of the site runs a tasting: a tray of small cups covering Balinese coffee, ginger and lemongrass teas, cocoa and a few sweetened blends, usually included with entry, with kopi luwak sold on top. Civet coffee is a fixture of Bali’s plantation tour circuit, and welfare standards across the industry vary a great deal, so it is fair to ask how the animals are kept before ordering, and to leave it if you are not satisfied.
How to visit
Alas Harum sits about 25 minutes north of central Ubud by scooter or car, on the same road as the Tegallalang Rice Terraces and on the way to Tirta Empul. Arrive at opening if the swings matter to you, since queues build through the morning and the light on the terraces is better early. Wear something you can climb steps in, and bring cash for the individual activities. For more ideas around the town, see the full list of things to do in Ubud.