Ubud Palace, properly Puri Saren Agung, has been the home of Ubud’s royal family since the late nineteenth century and remains the ceremonial centre of the town. It stands at the main crossroads opposite the market, a compound of carved sandstone gateways, tiered shrines and shaded pavilions set around a series of courtyards. Its resident family were long-standing patrons of Balinese arts, and their support did much to make Ubud the cultural capital it is today, drawing painters, dancers and carvers over the past century.
The architecture
The palace is a fine example of traditional Balinese royal design, built in soft paras stone that local sculptors have covered in intricate relief. Split gateways, known as candi bentar, lead between courtyards, while ornate pavilions with thatched and tiled roofs sit among frangipani trees and stone guardian figures. Much of the current layout dates from a rebuilding in the early twentieth century after earthquakes, carried out with the help of the Balinese architect and priest I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, whose carvings appear throughout. The inner courtyards remain private, but the outer sections are open to visitors.
Evening dance
After dark the front courtyard becomes a stage. Each night a different classical performance is held here, from the graceful Legong to episodes of the Ramayana ballet, accompanied by a live gamelan orchestra whose bronze percussion fills the open air. The dancers perform in elaborate gold costumes by lamplight, with the carved gateway as a backdrop. Tickets are sold around the palace during the day and at the gate before the 7.30pm start, and arriving early secures a closer seat.
Visiting by day
By daylight the palace is a quiet place to admire the stonework and step out of the busy street. Entry to the courtyards is free, and information is limited, so many visitors hire a local guide or simply wander. Because the family still uses the compound, some areas are roped off, and during ceremonies parts may close entirely. The lack of shade makes late afternoon more comfortable than midday.
How to visit
The palace sits in the centre of Ubud at the junction of Jalan Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Road, directly across from the traditional market, so it is easy to reach on foot from anywhere in town. A late-afternoon visit lets you look around the courtyards and stay on for the evening dance. Combine it with the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary a short walk south. For more ideas, see our guide to Ubud and the full list of things to do in Ubud.
