Where to stay in Nusa Penida

The north coast between Toyapakeh and Ped is the island's most developed strip, holding the main boat harbours, warungs, dive shops and the widest range of rooms. Staying here keeps you close to arrival points and to trips out to the manta snorkelling and the western viewpoints. The coast has calm water for swimming and a string of casual eateries. Roads improve near the harbours but degrade quickly inland, so headline sights are still a drive away.

The west of the island around Crystal Bay and Sakti has a sandy, sheltered bay that is one of the best swimming and snorkelling spots on Nusa Penida, and a launch point for dives with manta rays and, in season, the mola mola sunfish. Accommodation is more limited and spread out than the north coast, leaning towards small resorts and villas. Sunsets over the water here are a draw. The road in is winding, and the bay gets busy with day trippers by mid-morning.

The east coast around Pejukutan and Suana sits closest to Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach, the dramatic cliff-backed bays on the island's eastern tip. Staying here means reaching these viewpoints before the day-trip crowds arrive, a real advantage given how the island fills up. Accommodation is sparse and simple, with a handful of villas and guesthouses on the cliffs and slopes. It is remote, the roads are among the roughest on the island, and amenities are few.