Pura Luhur Uluwatu stands at the southwestern tip of the Bukit peninsula, on a cliff that drops some seventy metres straight into the Indian Ocean. It is one of Bali’s six directional temples, the sad kahyangan held to protect the island, and its position has made it among the most visited. Founded as a place of worship many centuries ago and tied to the sixteenth-century priest Dang Hyang Nirartha, it pairs religious weight with a setting few temples anywhere can match, never more so than as the sun drops toward the horizon.
The temple and cliffs
The temple sits within grounds that run along the cliff edge, with paved paths leading to viewpoints over the ocean and the coastline. The inner sanctuary is reserved for worshippers, but the outer areas and the clifftop walks are open to visitors with a sarong. The views along the Bukit cliffs, particularly toward sunset, are the main reward of the walk. A troop of long-tailed macaques lives around the temple and is notorious for snatching sunglasses, hats and phones, so loose items should be secured.
The Kecak fire dance
Each evening a Kecak dance is performed in an open amphitheatre on the cliff, timed to end as the sun sets behind the stage. The Kecak uses no orchestra. Instead a large circle of men provides a rhythmic chanted chorus while dancers act out an episode from the Ramayana, closing with a fire scene. Set against the ocean and the fading light, it is one of the island’s signature cultural experiences. Tickets are sold separately in the afternoon, and the best seats fill early.
Practicalities
A sarong and sash come with the ticket and must be worn in the temple areas. The paths are exposed, so a hat and water help in the afternoon heat, and comfortable shoes suit the uneven surfaces. Because the temple is at the far south of the island, it is worth combining with the surrounding beaches rather than making a separate trip. Arriving in the late afternoon leaves time to explore before the dance.
How to visit
Uluwatu Temple is at the southern tip of the Bukit, about an hour from Kuta and longer from Ubud, reached by scooter, hired car or Grab, with parking at the entrance. Come in the late afternoon, tour the clifftops, then stay for the 6pm Kecak dance. Combine it with the cave beach at Suluban Beach a short ride away. For more of the peninsula, see our guide to Uluwatu and the full list of things to do in Uluwatu.
